A Remarkably Peculiar Day
Today has been a rather exceptionally bizarre (insert any other synonym for “strange” you can think of) day. As I start to tell you about it, I’m not really sure how much detail I’ll divulge. I think the gist will suffice.
Our day started at 2 a.m. when we left for the Thai/Cambodia border. We are having some slight visa complications. We were issued a three-month visa by the Thai Consulate in Washington, DC before we arrived in Thailand, but it has taken longer than that to process our one-year extension. It’s a wonderfully bureaucratic process that I wouldn’t wish on my worst enemies (whoever they might be). This means that we had to leave the country before Monday, November 26, or face a rather stiff daily fine. This process is a pretty common one among tourists who would like to stay longer than the typical 30 days they are given by the Thai government; that is, leave the country, get your passport stamped by the neighboring country at the border crossing, and come back into Thailand, where you will be given an additional 30-day visa.
I wasn’t sure what to expect at the border crossing, so I did as much research as I could online. All I found was scary story after unpleasant incident after horrible experience with these “visa-runs”. So neither Dalissa nor I were very excited about what the day had in store for us. (As I am writing this, I feel that the “gist” is turning out to be the whole cannoli.)
The Cambodian border is roughly five hours away by car, but with P.Neung driving, we made it in four. (By the way, I would like to thank P.Neung, Aka and Gone for giving up their sleep and making this unpleasant trek with us.) The border doesn’t open until 7:30 a.m., so we had some time to kill in front of a 7-Eleven for a while. Also, in typical Bryan male fashion, I went off and left the passport-sized photos we needed to process the paper work for our Cambodian visa at our apartment. So we had to get those remade, which turned out to be surprisingly inexpensive. We then set off for the Cambodian border.
It really wasn’t as bad as everyone had made it out to be. As soon as we got out of the van some guys came up to us to offer “help” in making the visa-run run more smoothly, all for a ridiculous price. In Thai, I told them that I didn’t any speak English, but they didn’t buy it. After successfully ignoring this first group of guys on the Thai side of the border, we moved through processing out of Thailand. This consisted of standing in a very short line (it paid to get there just as the border opened), filling out a departure card, and getting our passport stamped by a man wearing a very tight shirt behind a very tall desk. This took three minutes, tops.
The real fun didn’t start until we set foot inside Cambodia. We instantly found ourselves being led around by a short man (who, from now on, will be referenced to as “our shadow”) with the number 9 drawn on his back with a Sharpie. Having never done this before, we weren’t exactly sure where to go, and our shadow pointed us into the direction of a room where two official looking men were filling out visa applications for three men from India. I say “official looking” to mean they were wearing official government uniforms, badges, insignias, ranks, boots and all. One was smoking. They told us that they would be processing our Cambodian visa for ฿1,000 ($32) per person. Well, the research I did told me that that was indeed the cost of the Cambodian visa, so we handed over our passports, passport-sized photos, and ฿2,000. They filled out the paperwork for us, left the room and came back roughly ten minutes later with the completed visas applied to our passports.
The next step in the process is to get your passport stamped as having arrived in Cambodia, and then stamped again to say you are leaving the country. Our official looking officers generously offered to do this for ฿500 a piece, which is five times the cost if you were going to do it on your own. We politely informed them we were not going to pay any more than ฿100 per person. After that, they stopped being so “helpful” and sent us on our way further across the border, our shadow having now caught up to us. We then found out that we should have picked up the visa forms from a tiny, barely-marked window on the opposite side of the building our shadow led us to. Seeing that we didn’t spend any more money or effort to get this far in the process, I thought, “no harm, no foul.”
We asked another official looking man at the real visa window where we needed to go to get our arrival and departure stamp, and he pointed to two more official looking men standing behind a table. They informed me that the cost of this arrival stamp was actually ฿200 per person, and that they would be processing it for us. We went back and forth and to and fro, from pillar to post about the price of this arrival stamp, and finally I told them that I didn’t even bring ฿400 with me, but would give them the remaining ฿300 I had if they would go ahead get us in and out of Cambodia. Fifteen minutes later we were walking back toward the border, heading into Thailand, with our visas successfully stamped, signed, dated, and officiated; our shadow right there with us.
Getting back into Thailand was a breath of fresh air. We walked straight into the building in which we needed to be, being clearly marked with a sign that said “Arrivals”. We walked directly to a stand that had the arrival cards for us to fill out. We were immediately called forward to process our new 30-day tourist visa by another tight-shirted, smiling man, and weren’t charged a penny in the process.
I have said all of this to say: I love Thailand. Out of all the countries in Southeast Asia, I am thankful to God that we work in Thailand. I also want to say that I have a newfound respect for our friends who are working in Phnom Penh, Cambodia - Nathan and Cheryl Wheeler and Andrew and Natalie Hayes. I learned a lot about how the world works over here just by spending 30 minutes at the border crossing in Cambodia. As the Wheelers and the Hayeses are daily laboring in this environment, though it may not be as bad as a border town, they have plenty of extra challenges that we don’t have to face. This makes our short, 12-hour journey, and subsequent 30-minute stay in Cambodia seem much less of a chore than it was.